"And behind the house is the kitchen and 'slave' quarters," our guide told us, whispering the word 'slave' as if its mere utterance might offend, or worse, in some way impugn the good name of the white descendants of Charleston slave-owners. When I further questioned about the slave quarters and numbers living at the Edmondston-Alston House, it was as if the very white (from the roots of her hair to her pale legs peeking out from below her skirt) docent hadn't heard me.
Then when I asked how a merchant in the 1800s could have 6 children and not even one married, I was met with a cool stare that seemed to say, "we don't talk about that dear," as her lips intoned, "no, none were married. Now notice how the interior shutters could cover the windows to keep out the sunlight."
Her reticence to utter the word slave, let alone discuss the horrendous history of slavery in Charleston stood in sharp contrast to our carriage tour guide, Matt. Matt spoke factually and at length about Charleston's influence on slavery in the United States as one of the first major slave trading ports. He told us how the rich rice merchants made a fortune selling rice to England, then returned to South Carolina via Africa where they loaded their ships with Africans to sell as slaves upon returning to Charleston harbor. He pointed out the barbed ironwork adorning several fences surrounding the majestic entryways to antebellum mansions. Matt claimed that the barbs were there for protection in case of a slave uprising and informed us that the ratio of blacks to whites in Charleston was 2:1 preceding the Civil War. The rice plantation owners, with townhouses in Charleston, lived in constant fear of a slave revolt.
Which historical perspective did each tour guide believe to be an accurate history lesson? Did our historical home tour guide really believe that slavery was an inconsequential element of the town home owned by Charles Alston? It surprises me that nearly 150 years following the Civil War, docents in the south could still have difficulty discussing slavery. For my historical edification, I am thankful that at least some, and possibly most, tour guides are able to honestly present the facts of slavery without resorting to a whisper.
Showing posts with label summer in Charleston. Show all posts
Showing posts with label summer in Charleston. Show all posts
People Watching in Charleston
Where are
all the men? That is what we wondered as we enjoy our window-side table at
Magnolia's in Charleston, South Carolina. We look around the restaurant and are
astounded by the number of groups of women- mostly young women. Then we begin
to notice groups of 6 to 8 young women outside the restaurant as well- some
strolling by, one group arriving in a limousine, one group departing.
What is particularly striking is that each group has a unifying 'theme'. The 6 women walking on the opposite side of the street are all wearing tight black dresses and dangerously high heels for the uneven sidewalks they are negotiating. The 7 women departing the restaurant are ALL wearing pink, strapless dresses. Pink may be in around here, but it seems more than an odd coincidence that 7 young women going out together would all wear pink! And one is even wearing a pink sash- like a Miss America sash without any text.
As we look, out the window, two identical green cabs pull up. As each passenger steps out one at a time, we can clearly see the group is all young women, but no unifying theme grabs our attention. Then each pulls out an oversized black hat (okay, one is black and white stripe, maybe that was all she had in her closet) and places it smartly on her head. Okay what is up? Our speculation begins...
Could they be debutantes? Well, they do look like they need to learn to walk more confidently (or a least stablly) in heels, but they appear a bit old for debutantes and are decidedly lacking a chaperone. Young women on a treasure hunt? A city-wide treasure hunt for women? None appears to actually be looking for anything. No, they are engaged in animated conversation with one another. Ah ha-- they must be here for a sorority convention! Sorority sisters from colleges across the country have alighted in Charleston, SC for their annual convention. They would likely go out to dinner with sisters from their college and perhaps each school was asked to dress alike as part of the weekend's festivities. My husband and I are feeling pretty confident about our detective work. Unfortunately, upon closer inspection (we have plenty of time for closer inspection as one particularly animated group is giggling, chatting and posing for photos right in front of our window) we see that none is wearing a sorority membership pin. Surely one would be proudly wearing her Greek insignia.
Just as they enter the restaurant, another group of women comes walking down the street, this group each wearing a flowered sundress and one in the middle has her long blonde hair pulled back with a wedding veil! Ah Ha!!! These are bachelorette parties! Guess the bachelors found alternative sources of entertainment. But honestly, if young men in Charleston were in the know, they would take a walk on East Bay Street in Charleston in June. Surely some of these young women are still looking for a date to take to the wedding.
What is particularly striking is that each group has a unifying 'theme'. The 6 women walking on the opposite side of the street are all wearing tight black dresses and dangerously high heels for the uneven sidewalks they are negotiating. The 7 women departing the restaurant are ALL wearing pink, strapless dresses. Pink may be in around here, but it seems more than an odd coincidence that 7 young women going out together would all wear pink! And one is even wearing a pink sash- like a Miss America sash without any text.
As we look, out the window, two identical green cabs pull up. As each passenger steps out one at a time, we can clearly see the group is all young women, but no unifying theme grabs our attention. Then each pulls out an oversized black hat (okay, one is black and white stripe, maybe that was all she had in her closet) and places it smartly on her head. Okay what is up? Our speculation begins...
Could they be debutantes? Well, they do look like they need to learn to walk more confidently (or a least stablly) in heels, but they appear a bit old for debutantes and are decidedly lacking a chaperone. Young women on a treasure hunt? A city-wide treasure hunt for women? None appears to actually be looking for anything. No, they are engaged in animated conversation with one another. Ah ha-- they must be here for a sorority convention! Sorority sisters from colleges across the country have alighted in Charleston, SC for their annual convention. They would likely go out to dinner with sisters from their college and perhaps each school was asked to dress alike as part of the weekend's festivities. My husband and I are feeling pretty confident about our detective work. Unfortunately, upon closer inspection (we have plenty of time for closer inspection as one particularly animated group is giggling, chatting and posing for photos right in front of our window) we see that none is wearing a sorority membership pin. Surely one would be proudly wearing her Greek insignia.
Just as they enter the restaurant, another group of women comes walking down the street, this group each wearing a flowered sundress and one in the middle has her long blonde hair pulled back with a wedding veil! Ah Ha!!! These are bachelorette parties! Guess the bachelors found alternative sources of entertainment. But honestly, if young men in Charleston were in the know, they would take a walk on East Bay Street in Charleston in June. Surely some of these young women are still looking for a date to take to the wedding.
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