Two Days in Paris with Teenagers

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You need more than two days to enjoy the relaxed pace and beauty of this multi-faceted city, so here are two very full days to incorporate into an otherwise hopefully more relaxed schedule. Day 1 takes you wandering outdoors in Paris while Day 2 is focused on two of the many outstanding museums in the city.

Advance Planning:

Book your segway tour in advance. Depending on the time of year you may need to book days to weeks in advance with Fat Tire Bike Tours.


Day 1: Centre Georges Pompidou, Notre Dame including Towers, Walk along the Seine, Segway Tour, Lights of Paris

• Morning: Start at the Centre Georges Pompidou.No need to go inside—outside there are many great opportunities for your teenage photographers, shoppers, art lovers, and people watchers.Small trinket shops line one side of the square; there is an outdoor fountain with fabulous water art that is both fun to look at and fun to photograph; the Centre itself is cool to view for its architecture and during nicer weather there are street performers all around the square
  From Georges Pompidou walk to Notre Dame —a 15 minute stroll. The Notre Dame Towers—worth the wait to go up—open at 10 am. There are nearly 400 steps to the top of the south tower though, no elevator. Like most of the main attractions in Paris, the towers are free for those under 18. The views from the top are outstanding and offer a great place to help your family get acquainted with Paris from a bird’s eye view. In addition, coming down the stone spiral staircase is a lot of fun. It is free to go into Notre Dame de Paris—an a good time to remind (or teach) your teens (and yourself) about showing respect inside a religious institution.
  Be sure to walk around Notre Dame to view the architecture all the way around. In addition, behind Notre Dame is a small park with wonderful flower gardens in the spring and summer. There is also a tiny play area, with a spinning disk that seems to have conquered perpetual motion. If there aren’t many small children waiting for a try, it’s worth getting everyone in your family on for a spin—adults included. As an added bonus if you need internet access there is a free wifi spot here.
  From Notre Dame, walk along the right bank of the Seine where you can browse the green book stalls both for books and for prints. Or some can browse the book stalls while others in your family check out the houseboats and barges along the Seine. Then meander towards the Jardin du Luxembourg while scouting out a boulangerie (easy to find), a fromagerie
  (not much harder to find) and an epicerie for bread, cheese and fruit. Then enjoy your picnic in the Jardin du Lxembourg. One warning: pay toilets only here.
  Afternoon: If you have ample time you can walk to the Eiffel Tower where the tours start, but you may need to take a metro to arrive in time. Fat Tire Bike Tours have great guides who really make history interesting and memorable for teens and adults alike. Between riding a segway and hearing the history of Paris in teenage vernacular your family will be entertained.
  Evening: Enjoy the lights of Paris at night: the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Place de la Concorde, the bridges of the Seine, Notre Dame, the Louvre and all of the buildings along the Seine are spectacularly lit up. The Eiffel Tower shimmers for 10 minutes on the hour every night and offers the potential for a family moment sitting quietly near the Seine enjoying the lights of Paris.
  I am not recommending a specific location for dinner as there are so many and some of the fun is in finding a place that meets the gastronomic requirements of your family. Of course, some places are better than others to look for dinner. The left bank, especially in the Latin Quarter, has many casual options.
  Day 2: Batobus, Musee D’Orsay, Louvre, Latin Quarter
  Morning: Start your day with a leisurely ride along the Seine. The Batobus offers a day ticket with stops at all the major sites long the Seine. You can disembark and reboard throughout the day on a single ticket. If the day is sunny, then not surprisingly it is very warm, hot actually, under the glass bubble on the Batobus.
  Disembark at the Musee d’Orsay. Depending on the art inclinations of your family you can spend an hour or three in this impressionist museum viewing paintings by Cezanne, Gauguin, Manet, Monet, Renoir and on and on. In addition, there are numerous artists who sit and sketch within the light-filled atrium. We enjoyed watching these current artists as much as viewing paintings and sculpture over 100 years old.
  Afternoon: Although the Louvre is a short walk from the Musee d’Orsay, take a break from standing and sit on the Batobus again while cruising along the river. When you’re rested get off at the stop for the Louvre.
  Before going in view the Axe Historique which runs from the horse statue right in front of the Louvre, through the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, through the Jardin des Tuileries, directly across the Place de la Concorde, along the Champs-Elysees, through the Arc de Triomphe and on through Paris.
  If you were to view every painting in the Louvre for only a minute each, you would need 10 weeks to see all of the paintings. So don’t try to see every painting. Don’t even try to see most of the art here. Pick out 7 or 8 art works to view and then go directly to them. Our children most enjoyed The Coronation of Napoleon. It’s a wonderful painting, but in addition to the quality of the painting there is a bench to sit upon while you look at it and it’s quite large so there is a lot to ponder. The audio guide gives good background on many of the works of art and there are oversized cards available in each room which describe some of the artwork on view. Wandering around the Louvre and possibly getting lost is also a fun pastime in this royal fortress.
  If the afternoon is nice, wander through the Jardin des Tuileries where children float toy boats on the pools and many people sit and enjoy the sun. Cap off your afternoon by relaxing in a café—a great place to share stories on what each of you has seen or just sit quietly together and watch the world pass by. The shops in the Latin Quarter stay open into the evening, so you can continue browsing after the café and before dinner.

Nights 6 and 7—a Few Passes

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My blogging for the past two menorah lighting nights mimics our ability to intentionally make occasions to offer kindnesses to others. As we went around the circle both nights, my husband and I each had a few passes. Seven kindnesses isn’t all that many. Yet I am finding it hard to keep kindnesses top of mind so that I see the opportunities to help someone out. I tell myself now that I will work harder on this the 8th and final day to be aware of sharing kindness with those around me. We’ll see if I am able to recount my kindnesses I shared today when we light the candles tonight.

The Fourth Night: Making the World a Little Bit Brighter

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The fourth day I heard, “I didn’t give any kindnesses beyond what I would do anyhow.” “I was at home all day—I didn’t have a chance to share any kindnesses.”

Clearly it was time to revisit the intent of sharing kindnesses given and kindnesses received. I didn’t intend that we would change the world, complete heroic tasks each day or oblige others to be forever indebted. I simply wanted us to be aware of what brings light into our lives and how we reflect that light. I would be delighted if most of our kindnesses shared were true gifts of kindness that we would have given had it been Hanukkah or the middle of July. I liked that with eight days we could create a habit of thankfulness and giving where one may not have existed or reinforce an awareness of the kindnesses in our lives.

Once we all were re-focused on the intent, we were much more comfortable sharing the more commonplace of kindnesses— my daughter helping me clean up, my husband baking a cake for our children, no one complaining when our afternoon plans changed at the last minute. Every day won’t bring a kindness that would turn a friend’s life around, but hopefully each day would make the world a little bit brighter even after the candle had gone out.

The Third Night: It's the Thought that Counts

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The excuses started with the morning alarm clock.

“I just want to remind you that I work at home on Fridays, so I won’t have many interactions for sharing something nice,” my husband announced as he stepped out of bed.

“You’ll see your family, “I responded, “we count too".

As it turned out, I was the one who ended up grasping for moments of kindness given. I had plenty of kindnesses received, rushing home late from work, getting a friendly smile and a helpful suggestion from a shop owner, being able to call my husband at the last minute to pick up my daughter, a truck driver letting me cut across to make my exit. But I apparently was in a receiving mode, not a giving mode as I grasped for 3, just 3, kindnesses given— how hard could this be? I looked for drivers who weren’t getting a break in traffic to pull out, shoppers who needed a door opened, I even stopped to pick up fresh scones for my family - all sold out by late in the day!

On that last try, my daughter told me, "It's the thought that counts mom, so that counts as a kindness."

When we stood around the menorah and listened to each others' kindnesses, again seeing the glimpses of gloves shared on a cold day, or thoughtful encouragement to a classmate, I realized we all have moments or days of receiving and moments of giving. It’s not that one is harder to see or acknowledge than the other, at least for me. It is that life is bumpy. Often there are caring words I can share, or a hand I can offer, but sometimes I am the thankful recipient of an extra smile or a driver’s courtesy or a daughter’s hug. The kindnesses of others keep my glass full.

First Night Kindnesses

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The first night we each told one kindness given and one kindness received. The only momentary pause was from my husband who said, “Two? I thought we only needed one on the first day.”

To which my younger daughter, always the mathematician, replied, “One kindness received for each Shamash candle lit and one kindness given for each candle the Shamash lights.”

“There’s always only one Shamash,” my husband responded.

“Precisely. Each night we only need to tell one kindness received, but the number of kindness we share with others will increment by one each day.”

“Okay, got it.”

The first day one of us received a book, one a kind word, one a kindness from a teacher, one a kindness from classmates holding opposing views. The first day one of us found two chairs to include two more in the circle, one held her tongue, one spent an extra 30 minutes with a student who just wanted to talk, and one I can’t remember because I was working so hard on not forgetting mine. Today I will work harder on my listening skills! Already we are talking about ‘saving’ a kindness for a day when we need 5 or 6 or 7 or 8. Hmm, that’s missing the point… seems I need to tune the goal.

Kindnesses Shared and Received

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We love our ceramic menorah that we unwrap each December and fill with colorful candles each evening during Hanukkah. As the Shamash candle is lit, we begin singing the blessing in our own multi-tuned rendition. My husband wasn’t schooled in religious tunes, or if he was didn’t retain them. And my religious tunes are limited to Herald Angels and Little Towns. Consequently, our prayer sounds much like a smaller rendition of Hogwarts school song.

Each of the 8 nights we add an additional candle, sing our prayer and enjoy the menorah for a moment or through dinner or while homework is being done. We love to watch the candle lights flickering and speculate where all that wax ends up. But we rarely focus long on the Maccabees or the blessings we remember in our own lives.

This year I thought we could think about what brings light into our lives and how we reflect that light. Each day of Hanukkah, we will each be observant for kindnesses we share and kindnesses we receive. Then when we light the candles we will each share a kindness from that day for each candle lit—one kindness each on the first night, two the second night and so forth. I imagine that this will be fairly straightforward on day one. However, I presume that by day 4 or 5 we will have to work to not just remember what we have done that day (for some of us a harder task these days than for others), but we will need actively be observant for moments when we can offer a kindness— from a word, to a hand, to a hug. I am sure it will take concentration to look for opportunities. Perhaps we will hold open a door or let the shopper with just one item to purchase step in line in front of us, or even refrain from a disparaging remark that was clamoring to be spoken. Eight is such a good number for creating a habit of being observant to where we can give a kindness and be mindful of saying thank you when we receive a kindness.

Stay tuned and I’ll let you know how well this works or doesn’t. Let me know what traditions you enjoy in December to show thanks for what you have received or be cognizant of what you share.

Homeschooling on the Road for Everyone

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“You never want to take an RV trip, right?” came somewhere between, “You want to have kids, right?” and “no mushrooms on pizza, right?” in our pre-marriage assessment of our compatibility. We both responded with a resounding, “No, not me, tent camping, great, an RV definitely not.”

Well two kids later and a decade of enjoying mushroom-free pizza and there we were driving on the Mass Pike in a 29 foot RV, starting out on a 7 week journey around the country.2 out of 3, not bad.

In hindsight, our 2 month RV exploration of the U.S. was one of the best experiences we have ever enjoyed as a family—and one we wholeheartedly recommend to anyone seeking time with your family learning about the expansive country we inhabit.

So how did we come to find ourselves debating a drive-through campsite versus a back-in campsite at RV campgrounds around the country?   We had often mused about traveling around the country as a family and after talking to friends who had taken similar trips, we broke our vow of no RV trips and started researching the choice between a Class C and a Class A while picking up lingo such as 5^th wheel and 30 amp hookup.  Simultaneously we considered the merits of withdrawing our children from elementary and middle school for 2 months and home schooling them on the road, or opting for a summer trip.  The summer meant more national parks would be accessible and there would be more amenities at campgrounds.  Spring or summer, what better way for all four of us to learn about our country, our culture, our natural resources than first hand.   In the end we decided to go in the spring to give us a chance to home school for a short time span as well as be able to spend more time in the desert (although less time in the mountains).

Our next step was to outline a basic route.  I bought a large map of the United States, tacked it up on a bulletin board and the whole family had fun adding push pins to destinations of interest—everything from National Parks to friends’ homes, from a cool space museum to an ancestor’s home.  I also wanted to incorporate destinations that integrated well with the curriculum I had created including the Civil War, the geology of caves, and regions of the country.  Our daughters connected the push pins with a string, mimicking a possible driving route around the country.  As the number of push pins escalated beyond 100 and the string started resembling a high frequency sound wave more than a smooth oval, we realized we had selected sufficient potential sites to visit and must narrow them down.  Eliminating places like Big Bend National Park (too far off a reasonable route) or Yellowstone (closed in the spring) wasn’t easy, but we knew we had to stay within our time constraint of 7 weeks and create time to experience our destinations, not just drive through them.

By the time March 3, our date to pick up the RV, rolled around, we had a rudimentary route outline, a full home-schooling plan, bags full of AAA maps, and a web site to blog our adventures.  At the RV rental agency Wendy, our rental specialist, gave us the full tour of our new home for the next 2 months making sure to emphasis that cruise control is not the equivalent of auto pilot.  She showed us the RV systems which my husband noted carefully, while I, on the other hand, entered her 800 number into my cell phone and made a mental note that we wanted to stay at a campground with staff for our first camping experience.  We realized we needed to factor in additional time to ‘camp’: time to change the oil, buy septic deodorizers, make campsite reservations and of course, time to de-winterize the RV (after all we were leaving New England in March, we couldn’t have running water until we were far enough south to keep the water from freezing). With the tour of systems over I was beyond excited and equally nervous!  

Now it seemed to me it was time for the driving lesson. What?  No lesson?!  We just hop in and go?  You’re kidding, right?  Wrong, that’s it; we were set (yeah right).  My husband would drive the RV home while I would follow in our car.  He got in the cab and was there awhile, I presumed adjusting the seat and mirrors, double checking driving controls etc.  Then he got out of cab and went into rental office.  When he returned with the serviceman. I stepped out of the car with a quizzical look.  “Just learning how to operate the radio,” he called to me.  “The radio!  I hardly think you should be listening to the radio for your first RV driving experience!”  Don’t worry, no problem, … and we were off!

Two Days in London with Teenagers

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London is an outstanding city for a family. Here is a two day itinerary that can easily be stretched into 3 days if you spend more time walking around.

Hotel: Crowne Plaza Kensington—highly recommend for a family. Two double beds and a sufficiently large room allow a family of 4 to share one room. Also, it is just half a block from the Underground and there are 4 quick casual breakfast spots within 5 blocks.

Day 1: Speaker’s Corner, Double Decker Buses, Tower of London, Millennium Bridge, Globe Theatre and/or Saint Paul’s Cathedral

Plan Ahead:

• Buy a family ticket for the Tower of London in advance to save time at the Tower.

Start with breakfast outside the hotel. The Patisserie across from the Gloucester Road underground serves full English breakfasts in a casual atmosphere.

Take a double decker bus (or Underground for quicker transport) from Kensington to Marble Arch. Walk into Hyde Park and listen to the myriad of speakers you are likely to see on their upturned crates at Speaker’s Corner.

Continue your journey via double decker bus to the Tower of London. Although it takes much longer to travel on the bus than on the underground, you will get a great view of the heart of London through the West End, Picadilly Circus, by Saint Paul’s cathedral along the Thames to the White Tower. Sit upstairs and if the front seats open up—sit there! The view is not to be missed—my teenagers wanted to keep riding the bus.

At the Tower of London take a tour with a beefeater (officially known as a yeoman warder). Their theatrics and stories will delight everyone. Have lunch at the New Armouries Restaurant in the Tower which has a terrific selection of food that managed to accommodate the varied dietary requests of our entire family from scones and cream to fresh vegetables and hot meals. While at the Tower be sure to see the Queen’s jewels, the exhibits in the white tower, walk along the ramparts and consider seeing the many other exhibits listed in the brochures available upon entry. You are likely to want to spend 3 hours at the Tower including lunch.

If time permits visit Shakespeare’s Globe for a tour. Otherwise, simply enjoy walking along the Thames taking in the bridges from the Tower Bridge to the Millennium Bridge up to Saint Paul’s Cathedral.

For dinner head to the West End where there are plenty of restaurants to choose among.

Day 2: Clock Tower, Westminster Abbey, Churchill Museum and Cabinet War Rooms, Changing of the Guards, London Eye, Walk along Thames, Tea and a show

Plan Ahead:

• Check the time and day for the changing of the guards at Buckingham Palace. Times vary winter to summer. And only occurs on alternate days during the winter.
• Buy tickets for the London Eye on-line to save time and money
• Make reservations for tea late in the day
• Get tickets for a show in advance or take your chance at half price tickets once you arrive in London

Take the underground to Westminster for beautiful views of the houses of Parliament—the clock tower which houses Big Ben is particularly striking. From here walk to Westminster Abbey (often a long line) or the Churchill War Rooms (much less crowded). Both are fabulous. The Churchill War Rooms are the actually rooms used by Churchill and his staff during the war to plan their war strategy. It is nearly precisely as it was the day the staff left at the conclusion of World War II and turned off the lights. Large maps with push pins fill the walls, telephones, desks, beds, even the cigarette lighter and saved sugar cubes are all as they were over 50 years ago.

From here walk down to Buckingham Palace. If you arrive late and the crowds have filled in, then head out to the statue of Queen Victoria. From here you can watch the guards march in from 2 sides then walk around to the front of the statue where you can stand on tiptoes to see the proceedings over the heads of the crowd. The police do not want visitors climbing on the statues so take note.

Following the changing of the guards you may have time for a ride on the London Eye before lunch. Even my older teen who thought it was too touristy was pleasantly surprised at the outstanding views and cool photographic angles from the London Eye. The views alone help reinforce the layout of the city and you point out where you have visited and where you’re headed.

Walk along the Thames towards the Golden Jubilee Bridge celebrating the Queen’s 50 year as queen. You can find an EAT along here for lunch, street performers if the weather is nice and people watching in general. Stroll through Gabriel’s Wharf for some artistic shopping. When you’re walked out, head back to the hotel to change for tea.

For a splurge, afternoon tea at fancy hotel in London is gastronomically outstanding as well as offering a relaxing time to talk with your children – ah the pleasures of a family vacation. The Goring Hotel offers fabulous service and an outstanding selection of tea treats all in a beautiful tea room. The price is steep, but in line with prices elsewhere. We actually found it to be less than tea at Fortnum and Mason’s which lacks in the intimate ambiance of the Goring.

Following tea, you can make your way to an evening of theater or enjoy walking along the Thames for the evening.

Optional Day if you have just arrived on a red eye:

Take the Thames River Boat to Greenwich. There are a number of river boats on the Thames. The advantage of the commuter boat is that tickets cost less and if your children are tired and want to nap, there is less intrusive PA talking (of course they do still announce each stop). Taking the boat to Greenwich gives you 45 minutes or so to relax and watch London passing. There are plenty of sites to point out along the way including the houses of Parliament, the London Eye, Shakespeare Globe Theatre, the Tower of London and all of the amazing bridges.

In Greenwich walk around the town then head for the National Maritime Museum (http://www.nmm.ac.uk) —free admission to a wonderful exhibit of maritime history. The model sailing ships and history of telling time at sea kept my sailor teenager enthralled and the state of the art ship’s bridge simulator entertained my active teen.

From the National Maritime Museum walk up the hill to the Royal Observatory, http://www.nmm.ac.uk/places/royal-observatory/, home of Greenwich Mean Time and the Prime Meridian.

If you’re tired and the weather cooperates, relax in the park on your way back to the Thames. There are plenty of places to find a good lunch in town. Then you can return via the river boat or walk under the Thames and take the DLR back to London.

Have ideas for London you would like to share? Comment on this post!

It's The Feeling Not the Food

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While the Israelites may have fled with unleavened bread to hasten their departure, finding Matzos these days requires significant preplanning. I would have thought that by now I’d know how much Matzo our household would consume during Passover and be prepared by buying it all in advance. But no, I remain a just-in-time shopper, and consequently we are down to our last morsel of Matzo with Passover not even half over. Scouring the shelves of two different supermarket chains brought no signs of unleavened bread beyond the bagger at the check out commenting that ‘the stock was looking pretty low yesterday so we’re probably all out by now.”

Oh well, if our menu doesn’t provide sufficient reminders of the Exodus, then perhaps I can recreate the feeling of the Exodus with my last minute preparations. While my mother-in-law is the consummate prepared hostess, my food planning is consistently last minute. So when I still hadn’t made the brisket the morning of Passover, even though my mother-in-law's recipe clearly recommends making it the night before in order to simplify dinner preparations, my walking partner suggested instead that I could recreate the mood of the Israelites grabbing what provisions they could as they headed out in haste. I mean really, were any of them writing up their shopping lists days in advance in order to allow their meat to rest overnight for optimum taste? This sounded like just the plan I needed to make my Passover dinner work.

You see, I have only hosted a handful of Passover dinners, and just as the first three Christmas trees my husband set up in the early years of our marriage crashed to the floor in the middle of the night, my Passover meals have been somewhat less than traditional. For instance, the first Passover I hosted, I drew upon the traditional Thanksgiving dinners I had grown up with, for in essence, Passover is both a remembrance and a giving of thanks. So I dutifully made every recipe listed in my Passover book, set the seder plate, and then, before calling everyone to the table, set the table with the steaming how dishes of brisket and kugel and beans—thankfully I at least knew enough to not make biscuits. Not only did the food all grow cold while we read through the Haggadah, but we could hardly hear one another over the growling of our stomachs as the aromas curled around our empty plates and our eyes drank in the feast set before us.

Several years later as I was shopping for Matzos, I found the end cap at the grocery stocked full with Manischewitz Matzos. Upon closer review, I noticed that every box had a large orange ‘unsalted’ banner plastered across the front. Was this what I was supposed to buy? Would everyone notice and wonder why I hadn’t tailed a Jewish shopper around the store to find the regular Matzos for those in the know? Confused, but not heading home without Matzos, I put a box in my cart. My husband found my confusion amusing, “They never have salt,” he told me, “must just be a new marketing tactic for health conscious consumers.”

So next year I’ll know not to put the serving dishes on the table when we sit down, that all matzos are unsalted and that I need to purchase all the matzos I’ll need well before Passover. I wonder what new lesson will come my way.